Chicago, Baby Don’t You Wanna Go?
May 16th, 2012 § 5 Comments
Chicago, early morning
As someone who has adopted New York as my home I will admit that I am a more than I little chauvinistic about other cities in the United States. I mean, if I didn’ t think New York was the best, what would possible justify paying the high cost of living here?
Chicago has a reputation as the United States’ “second city,” which seems unwarranted, because Chicago is very much its own city with a very particular history and very strong city pride. I have had the opportunity to visit Chicago several times over the past year and I found a city that I could easily get into *almost* as much as New York (okay, enough already).
Chicago took me by surprise. Before the fall of 2011, the last time I visited was in 2002 when I drove across the United States in twice in one summer. I loved it then, but that was 10 years ago. I wasn’t sure what to expect, and Chicago is a sprawling, complicated, segregated city. It is frustrating and fantastic, both familiar (if you enjoy and know how to navigate big cities) and totally strange. In late March I got to spend several days there and found that the city offered me exactly what I needed and didn’t even know I was looking for.
Since Chicago is a big city, I thought I would break down my discovery by neighborhood, though be forewarned, it is very Northside heavy.
Mast Brother’s Hot Chocolate at Cafe Lula
Logan Square
Probably the most “Killerfemme” place in Chicago. Kat Asharya first pointed me towards this neighborhood and she was right on. Hip, mellow, scruffy and a little bit odd. Logan Square is on the edge of the Blue Line fueled gentrification, but also significantly far from the downtown, so a decidedly chill vibe pervades the place. Highlights include: New Wave Coffee, which is a perfect place to work all day, with plentiful outlets and ice tea and free wi-fi and new wave record covers halfheartedly tacked to the wall. Who doesn’t love a dingy, hipster coffee shop? For those looking for a French treat, next to New Wave Coffee is La Boulangerie, which services sweet and savory crepes and sandwiches.
Breakfast at Cafe Lula
Cafe Lula is mobbed for brunch on the weekends, but serves a stellar breakfast on the weekdays, as well as a beautiful dinner and perfect late night cocktails. I managed to eat every meal here and would happily do so everyday if given the opportunity. Around the corner from Cafe Lula is Wolfbait and B Girls, a perfect boutique selling handmade and vintage clothes, accessories and decor items all made by local Chicago artists and crafters. I found a ring made out of a typewriter key and a charming hand sewn headband.
The window of Wolfbait & B Girls
Diagonal across Logan Square from Cafe Lula is Longman & Eagle, another perfect bar and cafe complete with dark, wood paneled ambiance. Apparently, they are also an inn with rooms to rent. Their menu features seasonal cuisine and more perfect cocktails. And, speaking of cocktails, if that’s really what you are after try The Whistler, which has a hip, “speakeasy” type vibe and hosts live music and DJs to boot, but carries it off with an air of relaxation instead of pretension.
The sign outside Longman & Eagle
Also, it is nowhere near Logan Square, but in far East Chicago you will find Smoque BBQ. You cannot miss this. Tender brisket, perfect pulled pork, ribs galore, beautiful mac and cheese and huge salads. It’s worth the trip and while the atmosphere is nearly “fast food” the BBQ dinner you will have is unforgettable.
Dinner at Smoque
Wicker Park
Densely gentrified and more packed than Bedford avenue on a Sunday afternoon (okay, quit with the NYC references), you can’t visit Chicago without visiting Wicker Park. Quimby’s has been my required Chicago stop for years for the best in zines, independent comics, art books and other small press delights.
Chicago-made zines at Quimby’s
My other Wicker Park classic is Reckless Records, where I picked up an LP of My Bloody Valentine rarities, Wedding Present 7″s and the Rodan record in perfect condition. My favorite part is the employees write record reviews that are stuck to the front of the vinyl to let you know why you must own this particular record. Wormhole Coffee is full of odd 80′s video game references and good coffee drinks, though it is kind of loud, so Dave and I opted for taking our beverages to the actual park in Wicker Park.
Record shopping at Reckless Records
I was also lucky enough to stumble upon The Blue Line, which is literally right under the Blue Line stop, and the answer to one of my needs that weekend: a place to watch the season premiere of Mad Men. Lucky me, not only do they show Mad Men every Sunday (“With sound!” they are pleased to advertise), but also feature Mad Men drink specials, like $6 Manhattans. The Blue Line feels like a streamlined cocktail bar from the 20s, making it the perfect Mad Men environment.
To recover from all my walking and shopping I had dinner at Handlebar, which as spectacular vegan and vegetarian options for dining and a beautiful Bloody Mary on offer. A vegetarian specific restaurant has to be really good if I am to like it and Handlebar definitely passed the test! Besides, who doesn’t like a bike themed restaurant?
The West Loop
The West Loop, which is directly west of downtown Chicago, features two things I love: art and food. This area is refreshingly uncrowded and still full of meat and food suppliers, which harken back to Chicago’s not-so-distant past as a hub of stockyards and meat processioning plants. There are several fine provision shops which also serve sandwiches, including J.P. Graziano’s. You order your sandwich from a Deli counter, and then peruse imported Italian specialties, bulk spices and fresh cheeses. When your sandwich is ready a sweet old lady at a cash register behind a window rings you up.
Outside Publican Quality Meats
Also in the neighborhood is Publican Quality Meats, which is a more casual version of the Publican restaurant across the street. They serve deli sandwiches and have great provisions on offer. And if you need caffeine (which I always do) La Colombe is a light, airy and minimalist cafe with perfect espresso drinks and pastries. There are also galleries like Three Walls, which nurtures emerging artists and has created a great opportunity for both local and national artists, and the member-driven Chicago Artists Coalition.
Coffee and cake at La Colombe
The Loop/The Magnificent Mile
Downtown is not usually my favorite place in any city, as it is often full of tourists, business people and chain stores, and in some ways, Chicago is no exception. However, one really cannot go to Chicago and not go to the Art Institute of Chicago or Millennium Park to see Anish Kapoor‘s Cloud Gate (nicknamed “The Bean”).
Anish Kapoor’s “Cloud Gate” aka “The Bean”
I also took a wander down the “Magnificent Mile,” which is to Chicago what 5th avenue is to Manhattan or the Champs Elysees is to Paris: historic, beautiful, expensive, crowded, overblown, full of wandering tourists and pricey stores (many of them international brands full of things you can buy anywhere), but unmissable. In my wandering I managed to score some brightly colored slim jeans from Old Navy and a perfect non-leather jacket from Zara.
Found along the “Magnificent Mile”
I spent a few moments at an do-it-yourself gallery in Pilsen, which is fast becoming the neighborhood for artists, but I still haven’t managed to get a real sense of it (next time!).
I came to Chicago fresh off of South by Southwest, a little frayed and frantic, and was steadied by the sense of adventure and comfort the city offered. Hard edged, but welcoming and spacious, proud, boastful, but friendly. I wanted friends, cocktails, a place to work with wi-fi, handmade goods, a bar in which to watch Mad Men, and to meet new people and see old friends. Chicago offered me all of this.
However, here is one more New York chauvinistic note about Chicago: While the “El” train is good for transportation, if you need to do any serious getting around you will have to take the bus. But fear not! Many of the bus lines enable you to send a text message to find out when the next bus is coming and because I was staying at the Chicago Getaway Hostel (which I highly recommend) in Lincoln Park and going to Logan Square almost every night I got very comfortable with the 74 Fullerton bus, and fairly familiar with the 8 Halsted bus.
Waiting for the 74 Fullerton bus
Also, I could not walk, drive or take the bus around Chicago without thinking of my favorite movie of all time, The Blues Brothers. As cliche as it sounds, I can’t be in Chicago and not sing “She Caught the Katy” or “Sweet Home Chicago” to myself. Finally, the twelve-year-old in me cannot get over the epic car chase scene and who can walk or drive through Chicago and see a sign for “Lower Wacker Drive” and not think of this scene:
Montreal – Ville de Coeur
May 3rd, 2012 § 2 Comments
Francophile that I am, I have somehow ignored the fact that a mere eight hours to the north of me is a city that is seeped in French history, culture and language, but also is a solid part of North America. I am, of course, speaking about Montreal. As you approach Montreal from the highway, whether in a car or on the Greyhound bus, the city rises above the agrarian plain of southern Quebec like a dream. It’s hard to imagine that this far north after traversing the mountains of Vermont and the fields and farms of Quebec, that a city so cosmopolitan and radical is there existing and waiting to welcome those of us weary of the United States.
Bonjour Montreal!
While I’ve been to Montreal twice before (and loved it each time), my visit a few weeks ago was the first time I got to immerse myself in a Francophone community thanks to my generous French hosts who were living there for a year from France. I learned quickly that there are three overlapping, yet separate, communities in Montreal: Anglophone, Francophone from France, and Quebecois. Montreal exists at the intersection of these three groups and fantastic things happen there linguistically. Quebec is a French-speaking Province, but English is a second language in Montreal. By law everyone must utilize French in public until you determine you are both Anglophone and then you switch. This means that everyone speaks some kind of French and no one judges you for your accent. My accent was called “German,” which I found exceedingly charming. Montreal is low-risk French speaking and the French that is spoken is generally tempered with a North American accent. Overall, everyone has a good feeling about Montreal, whether they speak English or French and come from other parts of Canada, the United States, or Europe and Montrealites are very proud of their city.
I count on Montreal for its refreshingly radical politics that always have a sense of humor and artistry
Montreal is a nexus of good eating. I skipped the gourmet options, like Au Pied de Cochon, and went straight for the everyday fare. My favorite by far was Depanneur Le Pick Up. A depanneur (or “Dep” for short) is the Montreal equivalent of bodega, corner store, convenience store, or epicerie, depending where you come from. However, in its magazine rack Le Pick Up carries zines and DIY albums, its coolers are full of natural soda (including a Pine Sol-like tasting Spruce variety), and it includes a lunch counter and outdoor tables and services a killer weekend brunch and huge, tasty sandwiches, including pulled pork in both authentic and vegetarian versions.
Thanks to Aurelie Letizia and Danisha, two lovely blogeuses mode et beaute, I spent a lovely, girly, brunch at l’universal, talking about WordPress, fashion week, and sharing news about other blogueses. The fast friendship and camaraderie reminded me a lot of meeting up with zine pen pals over ten years ago and it is a wonderful feeling to build an international community. The brunch at l’universal is also full of delicious eggs, home fries and comes with a side of fruit salad.
Bagel breakfast at St. Viateur
Beyond that I couldn’t help but make a stop at St. Viateur Bagles (no one can come to Montreal and miss this!). Montreal bagels are smaller and less chewy then New York-style bagels. They have a lightness to them (for a bagel) that I love. I also had a coffee and sandwich at Le Caigibi, which offers great vegan treats, and sampled Montreal’s response to the cupcake craze at Petits Gateaux.
Artwork at Petits Gateaux
I also could not miss poutine, which is practically the national dish of Quebec, though somehow I did not eat this Canadian comfort food of fries, gravy and cheese curds the last two times I visited. For a gourmet, Scandinavian twist on traditional poutine we were recommended by one of my Instagram friends to try Cafe Ellefsen.
Poutine Norvégienne at Cafe Ellefsen
I got a poutine with Swedish meatballs and fresh, local cheese, which made it less heavy than the average poutine and served in a light, airy environment. We also had some lovely drinks at Notre Dame de Quilles, which is either a bar and restaurant that has a few bowling lanes (where you reset the pins yourself and they are candle pins, for all of you northeasterners out there!) or a few bowling lanes with a bar attached, depending how you look at it. “Quilles” is “Bowling Pin” in Quebecois, by the way.
Elle Quebec explores the important questions
Despite promising myself I wouldn’t shop very much, Montreal is a shopping paradise if you like handmade, quirky things and cutting edge fashion. I got my Canada-made fix at General 54 in Mile End, which features all Canadian designers, and has a vintage annex next door. It is owned by Jennifer Glasgow, whose designs I love and whose perfectly on-trend yet timeless shirt I showed off in my last entry. At the very trendy Bubbles Boutique I picked up a fancy vegan wallet by Montreal-based eco-couteuriers Matt & Nat, which I think will serve me well.
Nouveautés de Montréal! Zines, books, wallet, tote bag and blouse!
While wandering around Le Plateau and Mile End I got my book fix in French and English when I dropped by the Drawn and Quarterly bookstore. I’ve admired the comics and graphic novels they have put out for years and loved the selection of fiction, theory, graphic novels and cook books they had on offer at the shop. I also went to Librarie Le Port de Tete for art books, mini comics and livres en francais.
Sign for Drawn and Quarterly book store
Showing off my new “Lesbian Haircut for Anyone”
Montreal is a mashup between languages, people and cultures and because of that it is an extremely open, welcoming place. Identity is strongly asserted, but everyone is welcome to participate. For example, I booked a “Lesbian Hair for Anyone” (or “coup de cheveaux lesbien pour n’importe de qui”) with JJ, who is also a very talented artist and photographer. I also got a haircut from JJ on my last visit to Montreal in 2007 and both of these haircuts have been among my favorites! I also participated in a “Dance Workshop for Anyone” that combined yoga, modern dance technique and improvisation and will culminate in a dance video! Here’s a video of the first workshop and I will be sure to share the resulting video when it’s available.
Kawaii: Don’t the their name fool you, they are punk as f*ck
Finally, I couldn’t talk about Montreal without talking about the vibrant art and music scene there. I had hardly stepped off the Greyhound bus than I found myself at a house party listening to fantastic experimental bands and accidentally insulting a member of Dirty Beaches. There’s also a lot of French from France musicians and artists living in Montreal searching a vibrant artistic community. I was lucky enough to meet Minnie, the talented singer in Eliote & The Ritournelles and see my hosts band Kawaii play (despite their name, they are not cute, they are the punkest music you will ever hear made from toys). Finally, we went to Blue Sunshine, which is a soon to be ending cinema in an apartment building showing everyone from salvaged VHS classics (er, trash?) like “Ghoulies 3: Ghoulies go to College,” or (as we saw the night we went) rare shorts of historical and educational films centered around Montreal. They are closing on May 19, so if you love independent cinema in unconventional settings, go! Now!
I miss Montreal already and can’t wait to back. How did five years pass between my two trips? It hardly seems possible. Also, quick tip for New Yorkers: if you can’t stand eight hours on a Greyhound bus or the prices of flights to Canada try this: fly JetBlue to Burlington, Vermont and then catch the Greyhound to Montreal (it stops at the airport). There’s also an amazing diner, Arcadia, within walking distance of the airport if you have over an hour to wait. They serve real maple syrup with their pancakes at no extra cost. Montreal via Burlington is cheap, fast, and more relaxing.
The Arcadia (formerly Parkway) Diner, Burlington, VT
Breakfast at the Arcadia Diner counter in Burlington, VT
My pictures, sadly, look less than great and I learned an important lesson: even if it takes up a lot of space, if you are leaving home and want to take pictures do not leave without your DSLR!
Corita at SXSW!
March 19th, 2012 § 2 Comments
Corita rock guitar moves at SXSW
I am still in a bit of a time warp and there’s so much to stay about my first time at South by Southwest (or SXSW). The days passed like blurs and I tried to absorb as much as I could of the frenetic atmosphere around me. I’ve garnered enough material for several blog posts, but first and foremost I wanted to share these photos taken by A.’s friend JC of Corita’s shows. It was our first time playing out of New York State (in fact our first time playing outside of Manhattan or Brooklyn), our first time playing out of doors, and my first time playing with sunglasses (it’s bright when you play outside in the afternoon). South by was magical because people who did not know us, who actually cared about seeing music, saw and liked our band and told us so. Does that ever happen in New York? Rarely. Thank you again to Austin Girls Rock Camp and Waterloo Cycles for hosting us. It was refreshing to play like minded-venues with like-mined bands and we loved being outside with the wind in our hair!
Corita rocks the bike shop
With three singers and two mics you make do
This is my new favorite picture of myself, or at least my rock persona
Corita pulled out the stops and busted out the rock (moves)
There’s a set on Flickr and more blog entries about all my reflections and musical discoveries coming soon.
Corita's Waterloo Cycles Setlist (with typo)
Seattle Through the (iPhone) Camera’s Eyes
February 22nd, 2012 § 4 Comments
Oh don't even start with the "Sleepless..." jokes
At the end of one of my recent posts I mentioned that I had just gotten my first “real” camera – a Canon digital SLR. I’ve been amazed at the quality of the pictures it takes and how easy it is to use. However, sometimes when I am traveling light a big camera is not thing I want to haul around. I still have my trusty Power Shot point and shoot, but increasingly I find myself using my iPhone and the camera apps Instagram, Hipstamatic and Camera + for every day picture taking and sharing.
Queen Anne hill and Lake Union
I remember some camera advice being “The best camera you have is the one that’s with you,” but I may also be remembering that advice incorrectly. In any event, on our recent long weekend trip to the west coast I made the most out of my iPhone to document the trip, including a short one up the Space Needle!
Arrival in Seattle and testing the new light rail from the airport. Note the rain on the window and the wool scarf + sweater combo.
Though I lived in Portland, Oregon and have been through Seattle a few times I had never had time to explore it. While February is not the ideal time to go as a tourist and will remind anyone who has lived in and moved away from the Pacific Northwest precisely why they made that choice (persistent grey skies and cold rain), it’s still a fun and relaxed city. I discovered great food, excellent coffee, nice views, and a surprisingly stylish hair salon! I also only took off my sweater and wool scarf to change into wedding attire for a few hours. It may be green and non-icy, but Seattle is cold in the winter!
My first morning I met up with the groom’s side of the wedding party (the wedding being the reason for our weekend trip) at Pete’s Egg Nest for a post-bachelor party brunch. Pete’s is a quintessential greasy spoon that is crowded on weekends and dishes up huge servings of eggs and hash browns. That’s a way to beat the winter – drink more coffee and eat more eggs!
Only half of my breakfast would fit into the camera frame
For a wedding weekend we had a surprisingly relaxed time and I even found a chance to get my hair cut. I can be lazy about making time for a trim and because my hair is so short I have to stay diligent about it or suddenly, before I’m even aware of it, about two months after my last cut, I look like a sheepdog. Fortunately A. (the groom) recommended Derby Salon, just north of the U District. I was unsure, but as soon as I walked in and saw the Bumble and Bumble and Dermotologica products for sale, the retro aesthetic, and the cool, friendly people working there I knew I had found the right place.
New do from Derby Salon
Just down the street from Derby is another den of pampering and temptation: The Trading Musician, a locally owned music equipment store that sells new and vintage equipment. SMH was late in meeting me, so I amused myself by playing around with Phaser pedals. You know when you are in a shoegaze band when you can always justify one more pedal (just like one more pair of shoes). After hemming and hawing about features, tone, uniqueness and analog vs. digital I came away with a simple, functional “Small Stone” El Nano pedal made right here in New York City by Electro Harmonix.
The Trading Musician: A pot of gold of vintage equipment
Phaser sampling
After checking out the sights it was time for the wedding. It was nice to have a chance to dress up and be celebratory amidst the rain and the fog of the northwest winter. It was also inspiring to be at a wedding that was so much a product of the bride and groom’s vision and valued their relationship, family and friendships above all. There was also some funny internet confusion because the bride’s first name is my last name. No, I’m not getting married yet.
My wedding get up as seen in the mirror in the groom's men's dressing room: BB Dakota dress, Repetto shoes, and my grandmother's necklace and alligator clutch purse
Vows with the groom and his men in matching Converse high tops
The day following the wedding we decided to work off our post-party stupor by getting in our Seattle tourist fix. Now, let me explain that SMH is from the northwest, so any tourist activities were mostly for my benefit. I can also say that a lunch of fresh seafood at Elliott’s Oyster House was a great experience for all. They are committed to local and sustainable seafood and are extra sensitive to food allergies. Their dining room has a great view of the ferry dock, so you can watch the Washington State ferries come and go on their way to Bremmerton and other points in Puget Sound.
A selection of local oysters at Elliott's Oyster House
Alder plank baked northwest salmon
After I was satiated with fresh fish there was one more touristic thing we had to do. It really is THE touristic thing. Yes, the Space Needle. As a New York City resident for ten years I have proudly never gone to the Statue of Liberty, the Empire State Building, or Rockefeller Center. But in another city, why not? I love idea of the past imagination of the future space age, and while the view was mostly of the shifting fog and clouds, it was completely worth the $19 is cost to ride the elevator 600 feet up in sixty seconds. Viewed from the sky I started to gain a better understanding of the city and it’s relationship to the water, sky, trees and mountains, which were well hidden behind winter’s clouds.
The past's dream of tomorrow, today!
Downtown Seattle from the top of the Space Needle
However, sometimes when you visit a popular tourist attraction, unfortunate things happen. I’ll leave you with this fetching image.
Woodstock Chalet Weekend!
February 16th, 2012 § 8 Comments
Relaxed chalet style: Built by Wendy jacket, cable knit sweater made by my mom, Mavi jeas, Swedish Hasbeens boots, vintage Coach purse (and unfortunately long hair!)
Imagine a place, not far from every day life, where you can let down your guard and truly be yourself. Imagine a place where you can dwell in a liminal space where you can give into your whims and be cocooned in warmth, friendship and peace. This place exists, on the map as well as in the imagination, in a tradition my friends and I have come to call “Chalet Weekend.”
View from my bedroom window
The place is a rental chalet that sleeps twelve in the storied town of Woodstock, New York. Woodstock has been a place of escape and a home to artists and counter cultural visionaries for over 100 years. The chalet on Happy Cat Lane is quirky in layout, with lots of impractical architectural details and exposed wood. Most importantly there is a fireplace and two huge, seductively soft couches, an open kitchen and comfortable beds. It’s on a quiet dirt road not far from the artist’s colony Byrdcliffe, which itself offers another kind of retreat from the world.
Wood fire, Bloody Mary, happiness
Hah hah.
Morgane makes cookies from locally made cookie dough, an easy dessert!
These pancakes I am making are somehow really funny (and I get to show off my Petit Bateau shirt, bien sur)
Two birthday girls means two birthday cakes (made by moi)! Tres leches with caramel whipped cream and coconut and lemon cake infused with Rosemary with Rosehip and Lavender frosting.
I used to hate on upstate New York, but now I’ve completely fallen under the spell of its gauzy light and rural charm. After the hectic grind of city life it feels a little bit like cheating to escape to the quiet woods for a few days. For me there is nothing better to combat the winter blues than a fire, cooking huge meals, celebrating birthdays and getting so absorbed in my friends and the present moment everything else just falls away.
Where do you go to escape the daily grind?
Hudson River, by Saugerties
Saugerties Lighthouse
Kayaks at the Saugerties Lighthouse
For the practicalities: you can find plenty of amazing homes for rent upstate (or anywhere) on Home Away, Air BNB, or VRBO (which is connected to Home Away). The cheapest car rentals in New York City tend to be from All Car Rent-a- Car and there is also the affordable and convenient Adirondack Trailways bus. My three stops in Woodstock always are: Sunflower Natural Foods Market, Bread Alone bakery (amazing organic bagels, pastries, bread, sandwiches and coffee), and Woodstock Meats, a butcher shop with artisanal meats and cheeses and chalet essentials like firewood.
Chalet weekend crew! (sans K.)
Culebra Tropical Escape, Part 2: Culebrita
January 31st, 2012 § Leave a Comment
Culebrita all to ourselves
Looking back towards Culebra from Culebrita
We went to Culebra to “get away from it all.” We chose an island off the beaten track so we could exhale, explore, indulge in sunshine and nature, and enjoy without being around hordes of others in a heavily commercialized place. To pursue this idea even further we decided to spend a day exploring an even smaller, more secluded place: Culebrita (little Culebra), an uninhabited island to Culebra’s east. Upon the suggestion of the dive shop employee (hint, always ask at the dive shop for suggestions) we called Captain Sebastian and he agreed to show us around Culebrita on our last full day of vacation. We assured him we were “Four healthy people in our 30′s who wanted to snorkel, hike and relax on the beach.” Sebastian was about our age and the son of a yacht delivery captain who grew up throughout the Caribbean. Culebra is most definitely Sebastian’s home, though. When asked about Vieques, Culebra’s larger neighbor, he shook his head, “Too big for me man, too many people.”
Culebrtia beach
We met Sebastian at 8 am at the dock by Mamacita’s restaurant. It might seem punishing to get up so early on vacation, but trust me, getting into a small boat to chill out and take in the beautiful, tropical sights is nothing like getting to work at 8 am, so why worry about it? You can always nap on the beach later! We began our adventure by taking a tour of a mangrove forest on Culebra, marveling at the tangled roots and the watery passages between them. Then it was off to Culebrita. The wind was blowing strongly and the waves were super choppy, with white caps even in deep water. It was a fun, ride. Having grown up on boats myself I could tell Sebastian was super skilled at handling the the wind and the waves. So I let myself relax.
Exploring the mangrove forest by boat
When we got to Culebria we were the only ones there. Sebastian explained that it usually fills up by 11 am, so it’s good to get an early start. Because of the high winds the only other boat we saw the whole time was that of Captain Sebastian’s friend, Captain Bill. Bill has a catamaran and will fish and cook you a huge meal as he shows you around. The beach was on the leeward side of the island, so we soaked in the view and the sun out of the wind and then motivated to take the 15 minute hike to the lighthouse on the highest point of the island.
Hiking to the lighthouse on Culebrita
Close up of the abandoned lighthouse on Culebrita
A word of caution about hiking in Culebra and Culebrita: watch out for the thorns! Sebastian carried a machete to cut them back and I can see why. Those thorn bushes are intense and a brush with a thorn and your bare ankle or arms would be really painful. Thorns aside, the hike was lovely and mellow and the view rivaled those we saw from our hike along the spine of Jost Van Dyke last winter. Speaking of our trip to Jost, Culebra and Culebrita are only 17 miles from St. Thomas, in the US Virgin Islands, so the British Virgin islands are not too far off. In my own ignorance of the region I had no idea how close the Virgin Island and Puerto Rico are to each other. Answer: very.
View from the top of the lighthouse: Tortuga Beach
View from the top of the lighthouse: looking towards St. Thomas
Lighthouse stairs: totally terrifying
Sebastian fearlessly lead us up the lighthouse tower, which is not at all safe or a journey for the weak at heart. SMH and S. followed him right up to the top, sitting on the edge of the tower in the howling wind. Just writing about it makes my palms sweat. A. and I poked our heads out, took in the view and retreated. I’m glad I mustered my courage to do it, but climbing crumbling cast iron steps is clearly not an activity for worry warts like me.
Totuga beach, lighthouse in background, Culebrita
After lunching and snorkeling (do I even need to tell you it was amazing?) we took another walk across Culebrita to a beach that was even more perfect that any of the ones we had seen so far. White sand, palm trees, crystal water, the whole lot. Tortuga beach is also a national wildlife preserve where turtles nest in the spring, hence its name. While I would have been content to laze on the sand, the adventure continued and I went along.
On the way to the baths
Sebastian led us over craggy rocks to a series of tide pools fed by the waves. We stared at them admiringly, watching the surf crash in and feeling the wind whistle by our ears. Suddenly Sebastian stripped off his shirt, dropped his bag, and jumped in! We stared, slack jawed. We were sure our Captain was going to be swept out to sea. He waved at us, “What are you waiting for!” One by one we plunged in. The sea water was bubbly from the surf and felt as if we were swimming in seltzer.
The baths, Culebrita
Photo by Captain Sebastian
But we didn’t stop there. We hiked up yet another rocky outcropping to stare out at the sea and watch the waves crash into the tide pools. There’s nothing that settles me and puts me at peace more than watching the waves and staring across the sea towards the horizon. When I was flying to Culebra I joked that I was looking for paradise. I dare say that we found it.
Wind and waves, Culebrita
Culebrita, Tortuga Beach
I highly recommend Captain Sebastian’s tours. He’s fun, knowledgeable and will customize where he takes you to what you want to do. He also goes to Luis Pena, the islands you can see in my sunset photos in my previous Culebra entry, which have incredible snorkeling. He brings water, fruit and fruit juice for you! The price is extremely reasonable and as I said, he’s a great skipper to boot. He doesn’t have a website, but you can call him at 1-787-435-4498 to make a reservation. Don’t worry, he said it was OK for me to put his number on my blog.
You can see a full set of my Culebra and Culebrita photos on Flickr.
Finally, because pop culture never gets old (until it does) we of course, could not stop humming this song while we were boating:
Culebra Tropical Escape, Part 1
January 22nd, 2012 § 11 Comments
Flamenco Beach, Culebra, PR
New York winter is terrible. It grinds on and whether it snows or not, it feels like it never ends. To survive it you need to plot your escape. Our escape all started with the a flyer for the “Bruisecruise” – an indie rock cruise that features bands, DJ’s and plenty of sun starved hipsters. A. and I seriously considered it for awhile – three days on a boat with rock bands and warmth. We were thiiiis close to buying a ticket when we realized 1. the bands that were playing play in New York frequently and 2. do we really want to be stuck on a cruise ship with half of Williamsburg? and 3. for the money we could create our own tropical getaway.
Swimming at Flamenco beach
First we defined our criteria: direct flight from New York, easy, but not something that was just an all inclusive resort or tourist trap. Not too pricey. We decided on Puerto Rico because we don’t need a passport to go there and would not have to change money. I remembered when SMH and I were doing research for our tropical vacation last year we seriously considered Culebra, a small island to the east of Puerto Rico. It features one gas station, one ATM, and nary an all inclusive resort. Perfect. We mustered the troops: SMH, S., A. and myself and a few weeks of research and a few conferences calls later and we were set.
Waves, Flamenco beach
Here’s why you go to Culebra: you love beautiful beaches with hardly anyone on them, nature, and a slow pace of life. You don’t go there if you want all inclusive packages or jumpin’ nightlife or high fashion.
Beach essentials
Flamenco beach from the air as we approach Culebra
The flight itself is worth it. While there is a ferry from Fajardo, we were advised not to take it and I can see why. It was cancelled two out of the four days we were there. Instead we flew Vieques Air Link (you can also take Air Flamenco) from Isla Grande Airport in San Juan to Culebra – a half an hour flight. Limited to 30 pounds of luggage a piece before we got on the plane we joked that there would be a public shaming ritual where everyone was asked their weight. It turned out to be true! The plane is small enough it needs to be weight balanced and I felt like we were in van that happened to fly. For the landing we flew right over Flamenco beach, one of the world’s best beaches and where were staying. After the beach it looked like we were headed right for the trees! We flew in between two mountains, banked hard to the left and landed. I admit it, I was whimpering. As we were getting out the pilot was laughing and said, “Someone back there was scared!” I sheepishly admitted to it. At the airport we sipped a perfect cafe con leche and waited for our rental jeep to arrive.
Coming in for a landing in paradise
Culebra is a small island, but not so tiny that you can walk everywhere. The roads are narrow and twisty and it’s helpful to have some kind of transportation. After looking into the three car rental options available S. found the perfect one for us: Dick and Cathie’s Jeep Rental, which features the very strange Volkswagen “Thing,” a car that has a cultish following in the US. It’s got 4 gears and feels a little like driving a riding lawn mower, but with speed limits that max out at 35 miles an hour who needs a sleek jeep with frivolous features like windows and a roof? Cruising around in the Thing, top down, made it clear we were on vacation. We adored the Thing and “thinging” became a verb for driving somewhere in our vacation parlance. Dick also showed us where to park in town, where the super markets were, pointed out the vegetable seller that came to the island once a week (score!) and warned us about a pothole so big it tipped over a cement mixer. Dick and Cathie also offer bike rentals. We rented mountain bikes for 2 days, but were so busy with doing nothing, we never used them.
Driving the Thing
Party in the Thing!
Trunk in the front
For lodging we stayed at Culebra Beach Rentals on Flamenco beach, which has been rated one of the top 10 beaches in the world. The rentals featured everything we needed, and have full kitchens, so it was easy to prepare our own food. The highlight of our place was the huge porch with rocking chairs, a hammock, a dining table and grill. We prepared our dinners and ate family style every night, joined by a group of feral cats who seduced us with their sweet ways and were treated to a gourmet diet of chicken, fish and beef while were there. Of course the best part was that the beach was steps away and we walked out at every hour to soak in the sun, sunset or stars.
The "villas" at Culebra beach rentals - so cute!
Porch friend. The mellowest one-eyed cat ever. I almost brought this one home.
Flamenco beach was wide, vast and even though some grumbled it had been “discovered” at maximum we counted 35 people there. There’s also a cluster of food stalls you can walk down to that feature homemade mofungo, shark kebabs, and from the “Mexican” themed one the best pina colada we had on the island.
Showing off my new Esther Williams suit on Flamenco beach
Thanks to the Thing we also explored some of the island’s other beaches: Zoni beach, which was the locals secret 10 years ago, but is now well known to locals and visitors. These included some nudists, who we were surprised to discover far down the beach.
Zoni beach, Culebra, PR
Enjoying the beach life
We also went to Tamarindo beach, which features a reef full of sea life that is perfect for snorkeling. You have to be sure not to touch anything though – Culebra was used by the US Navy for training exercises and there are still unexplored bombs on the ocean floor! Tamarindo is also one of the few beaches on the island that faces west, making it prime real estate for sunset watching.
Sunset from Tamarindo beach, Culebra, PR
Tamarindo beach, before sunset
Beach chickens
For the inside scoop on beaches and snorkeling we asked at the dive shop on the main street by the ferry dock. They also recommended Captain Sebastian to us for a boating adventure, but I’ll write more about that in part 2.
I’ll leave you with a few more scenes that I hope will transport you out of winter for a moment. I remember my former dubiousness about going to the Caribbean, which I have since shed. I think it’s really about finding the places off the beaten track that are strong on local flavor and pride. It’s about respecting the unique culture of a place and appreciating the rhythm of island life. In addition to the sun, sand and time away I appreciated that we found a place that felt so “us.” For a getaway from winter with some of my best friends I couldn’t ask for more.
Frozen mojito at Mamacita's
Bakery in downtown Culebra. Delicious pastries!
Culebra Dive Shop
Hotel Kokomo, downtown Culebra
Note: This was the inaugural trip for my new digital SLR camera – a Canon Rebel T3i. These photos are mostly taken from this, but the airplane shots are from my trusty Canon PowerShot (and taken by SMH) because I needed something quickly at hand (and he had a better view in the plane).
Note 2: For more information on all things Culebra visit this sweet website.
North by Midwest
November 29th, 2011 § 4 Comments
Minocqua, Wisconsin
Being from the East Coast I feel that I was raised with a bit of snobbery where the Midwest was concerned. It wasn’t that it wasn’t nice, it was just that there was very little reason for me to go there. Besides airport stopovers in Chicago and Minneapolis when my mom and I would fly west to visit family in California, Wyoming and Colorado as I child, I never spent any time there. That changed in my earlier twenties when, the course of one year, I drove across the country three times. I got to explore Minneapolis, Madison and Chicago and found that hey, these are really nice places with a lot going on! But still, my snobbery remained in a small corner of my heart.
Afternoon walk on the Bearskin State Park trail with bonnet handmade by Donna S. White and Cachemire et Soie sunglasses by Jimmy Fairly
This fall I had the opportunity thanks to work to revisit my beloved Detroit, as well as Chicago and quick stops in Milwaukee and Minneapolis. The highlight of my trip, however, was three days in Minocqua, in the north woods of Wisconsin, about a 5 hour drive from Milwaukee.
Fall in Minocqua, WI
I was there for a day-long gathering of arts service providers, but had some extra time to appreciate the landscape. I had no idea that the north woods is a huge summer destination for residents of Chicago and Milwaukee. The desk clerk at the hotel told me that the town of Minocqua has a year-round population of 5,000, but that swells to over 70,000 during the summer. I came right between fall foliage and holiday season and the Waters, a large, old time feeling log-cabin resort complete with indoor water park, was nearly deserted. No matter. I enjoyed my in-room fire place and having the hot tub in the water park all to myself.
Lobby at the Waters, Minocqua, WI
When I wasn’t working I found myself with plenty to do. My first night I enjoyed a hearty dinner of sandwiches and locally brewed beer overlooking the lake at Minocqua Brewing Company and the second night specially prepared Bratwurst at Otto’s. Otto’s is filled with treasures that the owners have brought back from all over the world, including beer steins and authentic suits of armor. That is when I remembered, “Oh yeah, this part of the midwest is still very German! That town further south from here named Rhinelander is no coincidence.”
Otto's in downtown Minocqua, WI
The north woods is home to many talented artists who are excited about their communities and dedicated to their work. One place that serves as a gathering place for local, national and international talent is the Campanile Center for the Arts, whose Executive Director also runs Loon Land Trading Company, a store full of north woods goodness.
Trestle bridge on the Bearskin State Park trail
A major highlight was a late afternoon walk on the Hiawatha and Bearskin State Park trail. Located along a disused railway line, it begins in Minocqua and passes over two, beautiful wooden trestle railway bridges. I loved the sun reflecting off the lakes, where I watched fishermen bringing their boats in for the day, and met year-round residents out walking their dogs.
As I looked around me the landscape and the trees reminded me of a place I know very well: Maine. It’s about the same latitude, has the same industries (tourism, logging, farming), and the same kind of vegetation, as well as hard working people who are filled with ingenuity. In fact, playing my Maine card was a smart idea, as my host announced, “She’s a real person, she’s not from New York! She grew up in Maine!”
Also, apparently I’m not the only one who loves this region, because the New York Times just ran an article about the north woods “supper clubs” in last weekend’s travel section!
Paris This Time Last Year
November 18th, 2011 § 8 Comments
It’s feels strange to imagine, but exactly a year ago today I was getting on an Air France flight at JFK airport and leaving cold, damp grey November weather in New York for cold, damp grey November weather in Paris. Even in chilly November Paris sparkles. It’s just getting ready for the holidays and all the glitter that come with them, and late fall sunlight never fails to make even the dampest, greyest sidewalks inspiring.
I try to remind myself that I am lucky to live in New York, but when I look at pictures of Paris, I feel my heart start to soften and melt and nostalgia overwhelms me. This is the city I feel I am truly meant to be in. I feel about Paris in my 20′s and 30′s how I felt about New York City in my teens. There’s a deep attraction and a longing to be in a place that I feel fits all the contours of who I am, or at least who I wish myself to be.
I know it’s irrational. I live in a big city and I understand the frustrations of daily city living. It wears you down. People are rude. It’s exhausting. But then there are the rooftops, the sky, the open markets, the cafes, the boutiques, the culture, the Seine, the rues, the quartiers, the Canal St. Martin, all the many nuances that make up Paris.
Last year I set myself a Parisian itinerary guided by collections of “bonnes addresses” from blogs I had been reading and Pia Jane Bijkerk’s book Paris Made by Hand. I visited my dear sister, ate croissants like there was no tomorrow (the average Parisian croissant is better than the best New York croissant, which should not come as a surprise to you), and learned about the 80′s teen pop sensation Lio. I spent a lovely afternoon (and several awesome evenings) with my dear friend Leila, running around to indie boutiques like Corner de Createurs and La Cocotte (twice!), and doing silly things I love like going to Monoprix, having tea at Mariage Frères, cooing at beautiful clothes at Antoine et Lili, and buying bras at Princesse Tam Tam. I also just let myself wander until my feet were frozen, rode the metro just because I like it (I never do that in New York), snapped pictures, and soaked it in what I hope was enough Paris to sustain me until I can come back to the city that feels like my rightful home in the world.
Petite Atlier de Paris. Great for handmade gifts!
Near Gare du Nord
Repetto paradise on Rue du Paix
The cozy apartment of my friend Leila. I love how Parisian apartment have the most perfect, tiny balconies.
The only disadvantage being that old Parisian apartments are also walk ups. In this case 7 floors!
Noodle soup lunch at L'Alicheur, just off Rue Oberkamf
My first breakfast in Paris at Pick Clops in the Marais after my overnight flight
Rue Cremieux, stumbled upon close to the Gare du Lyon while I was on my way to catch the train to my sister's house.
Perfect Parisian pierre de taille
Texas is the Reason
October 24th, 2011 § Leave a Comment
Texas has its own mythology. Its own place in the American imagination. Depending on who you ask Texas is the reason for the United State’s current political mess, or the greatest place in the US, or somewhere in between. It is a universe unto itself, a huge and diverse place, full of long drives and very pretty countryside. I was lucky enough to spend a few days there in mid-September and take in some of the cities and sites. And of course, the Tex-Mex food.
The Orange Show, Houston, TX
When I first got to Houston I felt overwhelmed by the highways, humidity and strangely quiet downtown. I hid in a Starbucks and tapped away on my computer. Thankfully, the next day some native Houstonians helped me get hip to the more alternative and arty side of Houston. One of the huge highlights is the Orange Show, a folk art environment created by a postal worker named Jeff McKissack that was began in 1956 and completed in 1979. I loved the Orange Show’s immersive space and the passionate group of people behind the Orange Show Center for Visionary Art that are working to preserve it and other “folk” or “self-taught” art environments and traditions in Houston.
Ladies only in this part of the Orange Show
Purity of the orange is celebrated at the Orange Show
I also soaked up some more “traditional” art at the Museum of Fine Arts Houston where I soaked up a room sized mural of mountains and flowers that looked like a traditional Chinese ink painting, but was made out of gunpowder by Cai Guo Qiang. I also discovered the self-portrait by Suzanne Valadon and spent several minutes in front of it contemplating her sheer determination to paint and make a life for herself as a woman artist. In their gift shop I picked up two Frenchie books – My Little Paris (en anglais because I am a cheater) and Ines de la Fressange’s guide to Parisian style. I visited the Menil Collection, including their hotly contested Bzyantine fresco chapel which is being returned to Cyprus next year, and some smaller art spaces like the awesome Spacetaker artists resource center and gallery.
I love the sheer determination shown in this self-portrait by Suzanne Valadon at the MFA Houston
In the MFA Houston gift shop I found a treasure trove of books about Paris!
The sidewalks outside of the MFA Houston are painted in collaboration with a local artist
I also fortunately got away from the corporate style restaurants downtown and found one of my favorite things about Texas: spacious coffee shops with nice breakfast menus and outdoor seating. These places are so inviting, like you just want to hang out all day eating and sipping fair trade coffee. I enjoyed both Brasil and Empire Cafe (which are quite close to one another and the Menil Collection) as well as the super El Real, which has great Tex-Mex and is in an old movie theater!
Neon at El Real!
Westerns at El Real
After Houston I took a quick, few hour stop in San Antonio, and then rolled on to Austin. After some frenetic days of work on the road I took a little bit of time to unwind with my friend Jennifer. We took a drive about an hour outside of Austin to Krause Springs. Located in the rolling hill country it almost feels like a folk art environment as well, with rock pools, wind chimes and a spring fed lagoon. While Krause Springs felt like an oasis, Texas is going through one of its worst droughts on record and we drove through the remnants of a fire on the way there, charred trees with ashy leaves making the landscape look otherworldly.
Krause Springs, in Spicewood, Texas
I couldn’t skip eating Tex-Mex in Austin either, of course, and Austin is home to even more fantastic cafes with outdoor seating and of course, coffee shops that serve the delicious (and huge!) breakfast tacos.
Tex-Mex, Austin style!
But of course, after all that Tex-Mex I took a little break and Jennifer, her friend Jennifer and I had a lovely girlie dinner at a perfectly French brasserie called Justine’s with lovely food and delicious cocktails (also check out the “amazing” section of their website).
Toast to Texas friends at Justine's
The Saturday night scene at Justine's
Photo shoot outside of Arthouse TX
I also managed a visit to the Austin Film Society, Arthouse Texas and Domy Books, where we saw a wonderful opening, I connected with an old zinester friend, and purchased a book called I ♥ Macarons. Indeed, it seems like I found a lot of France and a lot of art and a few friends in Texas, even though I didn’t visit Paris (Texas).
Detail of an exhibition at Domy Books, Austin
