Tag Archives: Travel

I know where paradise is and you can get there on a ferry from Tsawwassen

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BC Ferry on its way

BC Ferry off Galiano Island

My life is made up of moments made possible by the generosity of my friends. Sometimes they are people who I have known for years, who I have slowly and surely built a relationship with based on shared experiences and ideas and we give to each other because we have known each other for so long and our roots run deep. Sometimes friendship comes in a flash and I feel a kindred spirit with someone I have just met and the generosity pours out suddenly. It was the second case that got SMH and I on a ferry from Tsawwassen, British Columbia, to Galiano Island last weekend. Galiano is an island just north of Washington state in Canada’s Gulf Islands and a place that I’ve decided closely resembles paradise.

Dusk, Whaler Bay

Dusk on Whaler Bay, Galiano Island

I met our host J., who lives in Vancouver, at a baby shower for a mutual friend last winter. I mentioned that I was probably going to come to the Pacific Northwest in the summer and she mentioned “the island.” We hit it off and hung out again before she had to head back to Canada and her job with the BC Ferry company. When we made plans to visit the island I had no idea what a treat we were in for or how generous J. and her family would be when we were there. Getting to Galiano is easy – it’s about a 40 minute drive south of Vancouver to Tsawwassen, the port where the ferries leave from, then about an hour sail across. Even though you can still see the Tsawwassen terminal from the docks of Galiano once we stepped onto the island we stepped into a different world.

Fishing at Sunset

Fishing at Sunset, Galiano Island

Our weekend consisted of catching  crabs and fish, huge, ugly, monstrous looking Ling Cod to be exact, and eating them that same evening; drinking wine on the deck while the sun set over the bay; cracking up while watching Bill Murray in Stripes on VHS; walking through thick forests to a pebbly beach with frigid water; admiring seals, otters and eagles; and even taking the plunge into the refreshing waters of Whaler Bay.

Whaler Bay, Galiano Island

Whaler Bay, Galiano Island, Afternoon

Jump!

Taking the plunge into Canadian waters

Growing up in Maine I used to spend a week or two a summer at lucky friends’ summer homes on islands, so I know a bit about the island life and how transporting it can be. However, there was something about Galiano that seemed even more magical. Maybe it was the thick cedar and fir trees covered in moss in the forest, or Mt. Baker towering over the bay in the distance, or the fact that nature is so abundant that you can pull your dinner out of the water (provided you have a proper fishing license). Galiano Island is one of those rare places that worked its way into my heart quickly and suddenly and I know I will keep it there forever, not unlike those suddenly generous friendships that continue to endure throughout my life.

Mt. Baker at Sunset

Mt. Baker in the distance at sunset

O, Canada II

O, Canada!

Baltimore Charm City, Hon

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The other times I had been to Baltimore was when the Chinatown bus I was taking to one DC protest or punk rock event or another stopped there, usually under a freeway overpass, to let off or pick up a few stragglers.  From that vantage point the city looked very much like “The Wire.” I had met some good friends from there who were fiercely loyal and proud of their city. I had heard that it was a great place for artists, but I had never been. So, I went (for work). Here’s what I found:

Baltimore Penn Sation Awning

Art Noveau Awning at Penn Station

Balitmore Row Houses

Victorian rowhouses with eye catching pop art paint jobs

Bloody Mary and Crab Soup

The ultimate Bloody Mary, topped with Old Bay seasoning, and crab soup at Mama's on the Half Shell

THis is Mama's on the Half Shell

Mama's on the Half Shell, recommended by a Baltimore native!

Weird Baltimore's Patron Saint

Weird Baltimore's patron saint John Waters in the window of Killer Trash

Arty Coffee at Spro

Blue Ally

Allyways, bright paint, low-rise, historic brick houses

Between work I spent time walking through the Charm City, learning about how the historic neighborhood of Fells Point was saved from demolition for a highway project by community organizing, doing homework in the cafe at MICA and remembering being in college, checking out the Creative Alliance and all the things they have going on, scoured a few choice vintage stores, browsed handmade goods at the Woman’s Industrial Exchange (Etsy invented nothing), picked up a Juliet Greco record at Own Guru Records (where they had a cute store cat), and enjoyed a Belgian style brew at the Brewers Art. If you don’t feel like walking there’s a free bus service that covers downtown called the Charm City Circulator. And I even got “Hon’ed” several times, as in, “Hon, do you know where there’s a sub shop around here?” I did not, but I loved that a. I was called “hon” and b. sandwiches were “subs.” I didn’t even set foot in one museum! Baltimore, I will be back!

 

Falling in Love with Paris from the Seventh Floor

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While the news is going nuts with the fact that currently Paris is covered in snow, I traveled there recently for a week that was much to short and very cold, with only a little bit of snow, but filled with wonderful friends and sights. One of my favorite parts of my trip was looking at the city’s fabled slate rooftops and red chimmenies from my friend L.’s 7th floor apartment. Yes, seven floors up and no elevator. It was how I evened out all the croissants I ate. For more view of the buildings, sky, and other pleasures of Paris in November view my set on Flickr.

Afternoon from the Apartment

Parisian Afternoon Sky and Rooftops

Bains Douches

More rooftops

 

 

 

The Good Life in Paris in November (and pas cher!)

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Paris as seen from the Centre Pompidou

In case I haven’t talked your ear off about it lately, I am taking a trip to Paris (and Gent, Belgium) over Thanksgiving to visit my sister and friends and soak up some European ambiance. I haven’t been to France in over two years and it feels like an eternity (though I did go to lots of other awesome near and far places, so I’m not so sad).  In anticipation of my trip I made the ultimate google map of restaurants, boutiques and quirky museums that I want to check out while I am there. Some of them I’ll be sure not to miss and some are just so I know they are there in case I am in the neighborhood. Some of the boutiques might be pricey (though not by Paris or NYC standards) and many are just for looking. And for buying holiday gifts for friends and family.  Many of these suggestions are poached from the excellent sources of Cachemire et Soie, David Leibovitz, the New York Times Travel Section, and Pia Jane Bjkerk’s book Paris Made by Hand, as well as some of my own obsessions (like Monoprix, okay, guilty).

Enjoy and please let me know if there’s anywhere I should add! This is very heavy on north eastern Paris because that’s where I’ll be staying and those are the neighborhoods I love. But one of the best things about Paris is its walkability and the metro, so I can go anywhere!

View The Good Life in Paris in November in a larger map

Central Europe Spring 2009!

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LJ and I had been talking about a trip to Central Europe since 2003 or thereabouts. Half of her family is from Hungary and we were interested to explore that country and since we were over there, why not the countries around it? Our list expanded and shrank as we planned, but when we finally decided to go for real we settled on visiting Budapest, Vienna, Prague and Berlin.

We just got back last week and it was a truly life changing trip. Not in any grant way, but spending 2 weeks wandering cities filled with so much history and architecture just put me in a completely different mental state. It made me feel more like who I am. I feel more positive and better able to see the bigger picture in the world. While travel is eye opening, it’s also very internal. It meant I got to indulge in my favorite things: walking around looking at cities, riding public transit, drinking coffee, observing, and having adventures big and small, and I got to do it all with some of my favorite people in this world. You can see the adventures (and read the descriptions) on flickr here and look at the photos as a set to see them more artfully arranged.

Paris, Again

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Afternoon, Pere Lachaise
Originally uploaded by killerfemme

I don’t need anything special in Paris. I could be completely happy doing nothing more than walking around, drinking coffee, and reading the newspaper. I don’t mind the perpetually grey skies. They enhance the atmosphere created by the narrow cobblestone streets, the tin roofs and red chimneys of the Haussman era apartment buildings, corner cafes with their sidewalk seating and the murky, contained mirrored waters of the Canal St. Martin. There’s more photos on flickr.

Unexpected Paris

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I’ve been reading a book about travel writing and one thing that the author stresses that is important for travel writers is to be open to the unexpected and be willing to investigate. I felt this advice boded well for me when, thinking I would write some cute piece on “romantic Paris,” I tried to go to the Musee de la Vie Romantique, but it was closed during the installation of their new exhibition. However, I found something even better on the Rue Chaptal, near the museum. There was a small impasse coming off the street and I noticed the sign said “Bibliotheque.” Noting there was a garden, I decided to go in, because I love the gardens and courtyards in Paris hidden behind outer, street facing walls. I was not disappointed in the least. This, comfortable, renovated library with futuristic looking chairs, computers and newspapers available for browsing is snugly located in an 18th century hotel particular. They’ve kept the details like the fireplace, frescoed ceiling and moldings intact, and reading Le Monde in such a salon-like setting felt like a truly unique Paris experiences.